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From a young age, Mario Buccellati was interested in jewelry as he found fascination with the Renaissance period, gemstones, and various metal types. It inspired him to create jewels that could transcend the traditional designs known to people everywhere. In 1919, Buccellati opened its first store in Milan, Italy, which helped it gain momentum and popularity. This led to expansion within a few decades, and the first international store opened in New York at Saks Fifth Avenue. Buccellati became the first international jeweler to own a store at the iconic landmark. Gianmaria Buccellati expanded the brand to a newer market globally which helped strengthen its reach.
Through innovation and inspiration, Buccellati has preserved its tradition and created stunning high jewelry pieces that have become famous worldwide. From a simple handcrafted gold compact to a silver collection worth a few hundred thousand dollars, let’s look at Buccellati’s most expensive jewelry.
Two-Color Gold, Cabochon Ruby, And Diamond Compact
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Mario Buccellati and Gianmaria Buccellati were both masterful craftspeople who were known for creating gold and diamond compacts between the 1920s and 1950s. According to Invaluable, they cost significantly less than the jewelry but retain similar crafting techniques as their counterparts. The compact has 16 round diamonds, a textured gold center panel, and an engraving in rose gold.
Cultured Pearl, Emerald, And Diamond Demi-Parure, ‘Bouquet’
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Auctioned off at Sotheby’s Paris in October 2019, the Bouquet is a unique necklace that belonged to Gabriele D’Annunzio. The necklace comprised baroque pearls, vine leaves, rose diamonds, and circular-cut emeralds. Made from 18-carat gold, the necklace also had a pair of matching ear clips with circular-cut emeralds and pearls encrusted in its center.
Citrine And Amethyst Demi-Parure, 'Jacqueline'
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Another necklace from Gabriele D’Annunzio’s private collection, the Jacqueline, comes with matching earrings. It has 12 textured 18-carat engraved gold leaves with encrusted amethysts and oval citrines on each. The center has a pear-shaped gold pendant finished off with a citrine. The ear clips have a similar round shape set with amethysts.
Seed Pearl and Diamond Necklace ‘Charleston’
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A necklace as unique as the jewelry brand itself, the Charleston jewel was put on auction at Sotheby’s in the UK. Designed in 1988, it was made from brilliant-cut diamonds and 149 seed pearl rows that merged to create its structure, as noted by Sotheby’s. Weighing only 93 grams, the piece is made from 18 carats of gold.
Pearl Encrusted Necklace
Buccellati has been an established staple at red-carpet events, with many celebrities choosing the boutique brand to complete their looks. Model Amber Valletta arrived at the 2022 Met Gala for Gilded Glamor in a stunning gold dress and matched it with Buccellati jewelry. She wore a pearl-encrusted necklace with round motifs, a gold bangle, and matching pearl and gold rings.
Gold Brooch, ‘Ghiande’
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After opening its first store in New York in 1951, Buccellati designed the ‘Ghiande’ gold brooch in the 1950s. The Renaissance Period inspired the brooch design, featuring three acorns and an oak leaf to balance the structure. The jewel is made from 18-carat gold, and Buccellati has engraved it with its signature finish.
Soffione Necklace
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A light and intricate necklace, the Soffione jewel is handcrafted with honeycomb artistry. As mentioned by Buccellati, the necklace has a dandelion-like structure in spheres with white and yellow gold lines encrusted with diamonds. It forms an elegant round with a larger centerpiece in the middle to draw attention to its shape.
Bi-Colored Gold, Emerald, And Diamond Cuff Bracelet
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Buccellati made the Italian Renaissance its signature style when creating the iconic Morgana bracelets and cuffs. Often made in yellow gold, they were engraved with rigato to give them a shiny effect. The Bi-Colored Gold, Emerald, And Diamond Cuff Bracelet follows a similar pattern with oval-cut emeralds around the cuff and tiny speckles of diamonds encrusted around them.
Diamond Parure
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Using Etruscan patterns, Venetian lace, and Italian vegetation, the diamond Parure necklace was created. The foliage design has yellow gold textured flowers and leaves set with brilliant-cut diamonds. The unique feature of the necklace is that the ear clips that come with the necklace can also be worn as a brooch once the jewels are detached.
Silver Menagerie Collection
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Miami-based interior designer Victor Diaz auctioned off stunning silver pieces from Buccellati at the 2018 Sotheby’s auction in New York. The collection had impressive animal shapes and structures. A pair of silver penguins sold for upwards of $150,000, while a tortoise was up for $80,000, as stated by Robb Report. Additionally, there was a silver pelican up for auction that Mario Buccellati designed in the early 1900s.
Buccellati has lived up to its standards of being the most exclusive jewelry brand in Italy, with hard-to-find jewels that can be custom-made. Most of its precious jewels have often gone under the gavel for exclusive auctions and sold for large sums. The brand continues to carry its legacy and create modern yet classic jewelry.
Sources: Invaluable, Sotheby’s, Buccellati, Robb Report
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